Won't Drain
The top GE call — food debris packs the sump, the pump strains and dies. The sump filter design makes this more common on GEs.
The fix: We clear the sump properly (not just the visible filter) and replace the pump when it's done.
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GE (GDF, GDT, and PDT series, including Profile and Café lines) is everywhere in Washington — builder-grade units in rentals, Profile models in nicer kitchens. They're workhorses with predictable mid-life failures, and parts are affordable. GE repairs are some of the best value we do.
Call (253) 549-3002 Get $20 Off
Won't drain. The GE drain pump and the sump filter design make this the top GE call. Food debris packs the sump; the pump strains and dies. We clear the sump properly (not just the visible filter) and replace the pump when it's done.
H2O / water supply errors. The inlet valve screen clogs or the flood float sticks. GE's float switch assembly is a cheap part — quick fix.
Control board failures. Dead unit, or it fills and sits there doing nothing. GE boards from the mid-2010s have a known relay weakness. We test the board before quoting a replacement.
Door latch / leaking from the door. The latch assembly wears and the door doesn't seal tight — water escapes during the wash cycle. Common on 5+ year-old units, inexpensive to fix.
Not cleaning. GE's lower spray arm and filter need regular attention; when neglected, the top rack stops getting clean. Service + descale usually resolves it without parts.
The top GE call — food debris packs the sump, the pump strains and dies. The sump filter design makes this more common on GEs.
The fix: We clear the sump properly (not just the visible filter) and replace the pump when it's done.
The inlet valve screen clogs or the flood float sticks, and the unit flags a water supply problem.
The fix: The float switch assembly is a cheap part — quick fix.
Dead unit, or it fills and sits there doing nothing. GE boards from the mid-2010s have a known relay weakness.
The fix: We test the board before quoting a replacement — boards aren't cheap enough to guess on.
The latch assembly wears and the door doesn't seal tight — water escapes during the wash cycle. Common on 5+ year-old units.
The fix: Inexpensive latch replacement.
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| H2O | Water supply error — inlet valve screen clogged or flood float stuck | The float switch assembly is a cheap part and a quick fix. Call us — no need to replace the machine over this one. |
Here's the rule we use: if the repair costs less than 50% of a new dishwasher's price — and the machine is under 8–10 years old with a solid tub and racks — repair is almost always the smart money. GE parts are among the cheapest of any brand, so a $150–$250 repair routinely buys years more life. On the fence? Read our honest repair-vs-replace guide (the 50% rule explained), or call (253) 549-3002 and we'll give you the honest math before you spend a dollar.
That's the classic wash-motor/control-board symptom. We diagnose which one in a single visit — no parts-guessing.
Very often yes. Parts are among the cheapest of any brand, so a $150–$250 repair routinely buys years more life.
Other brands we service across Washington: Whirlpool · Frigidaire · LG · Home
Related guides: Dishwasher Not Draining? Causes & Fixes · Dishwasher Not Cleaning Dishes? Causes & Fixes
GE not working? Call (253) 549-3002 — same-day service across Washington State.